Mountaineering Home
Mountaineering
Introduction
1. Mountain Terrain, Weather, and Hazards
2. Mountain Living
3. Mountaineering Equipment
4. Rope Management and Knots
5. Anchors
6. Mountain Climbing
7. Rope Installations
8. Mountain Walking Techniques
9. Mountain Stream Crossing
10. Movement Over Snow and Ice
11. Mountain Rescue and Evacuation
Mountain Survival Reference
A. Measurement Conversion Factors
B. Avalanche Search and Rescue Techniques

Anchors

This chapter discusses different types of anchors and their application in rope systems and climbing. Proper selection and placement of anchors is a critical skill that requires a great deal of practice. Failure of any system is most likely to occur at the anchor point. If the anchor is not strong enough to support the intended load, it will fail. Failure is usually the result of poor terrain features selected for the anchor point, or the equipment used in rigging the anchor was placed improperly or in insufficient amounts.

When selecting or constructing anchors, always try to make sure the anchor is "bombproof." A bombproof anchor is stronger than any possible load that could be placed on it. An anchor that has more strength than the climbing rope is considered bombproof.
  • Natural Anchors
  • Anchoring With the Rope
  • Artificial Anchors

    • Buy The Book This Site Is Based On
    This US Army Field Manual is the source material for this website. This is the finest book written on "real world" mountaineering (not just for sport). In current use with Navy Seals, Army Rangers and Special Forces, Marines, and sport climbers. Covers basic techniques, movement of individuals and units, and evacuation. Operations on glaciers and snow covered mountains, fixed alpine paths, also master training program. Climbers who do not read this book are already on the edge of falling.